Wednesday, January 18, 2012

So many things to talk about

Here we are, another week rushing by.  So many things have been happening!

First off, I would like to say a sad good bye to a new friend I had,  Jack Roberts.
I am grateful for the little time I was able to spend with you during the Petzl Party,
at the Ouray Ice Fest.
Jack was an awesome all-around climber, with a big smile.  Thinking about some of
the cool things he did...  2nd ascent of Jimmie Dunn's Cosmos on ElCapitan, Yosemite.
2nd ascent of Bridal Veil Falls, Telluride.
It is crazy to think about what happened.  When he fell, he was still talking.  He did not know
why he fell, nor did his partner...  Tests will later show if he had a heart attack before falling.
We will all miss you, thanks for all you gave to brighten peoples day!

Now, on some lighter notes....

Hayden Kennedy, and Jason Kruk have climbed The Compressor/Fair Means Route
on Cerro Torre, Patagonia!
Many people have ascended this route before, but not by "Fair Means."  Which means they were
able to get up this beast without clipping any of the hundreds of bolts placed by Maestri.
Wow!  Now David  Lama will have a good example to follow!

[EDIT]  It is even better now!
             The Compressor Route was chopped!
             David Lama has climbed The Compressor Route without those bolts!

Last but not least...

I applied for a climbing grant.  It is not an AAC grant, but from a local Colorado climber,
father, business man, Stephen Berwanger.  It is the "2nd annual Winter Adventure Grant."
The grant is for a winter ascent / 1st ascent in the lower 48 states.

I submitted a proposal for Thom Engelbach and me to attempt an unclimbed north face
here in our home state of Colorado.   During the ice fest I received a call from Stephen
informing me that we were awarded the grant, and that he liked our idea.

Thank you Stephen for your support!
Thank you Thom for agreeing to head into the chossy unknown!
Thank you Phil Broscovak for helping us gather thoughts for the north face idea!
Thank you Black Diamond Equipment for agreeing to help us out also!

 I will add another blog post when we get everything in order, and are heading out!

Oh and don't worry, here is a few pictures from some recent Vail ice adventures...

Me leading the Rigid Designator, Vail Colorado.

Rigid Designator.

Victoria Mata-Malmgren styling the Frigid Inseminator, Vail Colorado.

Nice work Vikki!

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