Sunday, March 27, 2011

New Routes - Past & Present.

New climbing routes.  Lots if work, but always worth it!  That is if you don't waste your time on junk. .

Last season was good to me!  With the help of my wife, Liz Donley.   My firends Aaron Miller, Thom Engelbach, Eric Malmgren, and Jason Maurer.  We were able to open up 4 new routes on Otis Peak,  in Rocky Mountain National Park.  They all face south, and are about 4 pitches long.  They range from 5.6 to 5.10+ trad.
In Boulder Canyon was the 2 nice trad lines at the 1st tier of the Avalon.  This area is predominately sport climbing, so the trad routes are a nice addition!  They are both super fun, 5.10+, up to a #4 BD camalot sizing.  Sport climbers love #4 camalot cracks, so I figured they deserved good names like, "The Anti-Sport" and "The Sport Climbers Demise."   
Here Little Andy shows how to pull the 10+ roof on The Anti-Sport!

Sarah Hayden on the lower crux of The Sport Climbers Demise.

Eric Malmgren on the 1st pitch of Smokey The Birthday Climb, Otis Power Tower, Otis Peak, RMNP.
Eric and me have the same birthdays, hence the name of this route done on 9/7/2010.  Every pitch on this climb was very enjoyable, and with a short approach (in terms of the park) it is well worth visiting!

Me heading up the summit pitch of Smokey The Birthday Climb,Otis Power Tower, Otis Peak, RMNP.

Aaron Miller on Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton), Piton Spire, Otis Peak, RMNP.

Thom Engelbach somewhere on I Thought You Had It, Fire Tower, Otis Peak, RMNP.

Liz Donley up high on The Path, Cosmo, Otis Peak, RMNP.
These routes are all listed on Mountain Project, check there for more details. . . (otis peak) (avalon 1st. tier)

Up to present times.  Yesterday I completed a new route up in South St. Vrain Canyon.  We were at the December Wall not long ago when I spotted this.  With no cleaning equipment I gave it my best on top rope, thought it was pretty good, and went back this weekend to finish up my work. . .With the  help of my wife holding the rope for me!  It is a nice 10+ addition to the wall that does not look like anything special from the ground, but climbs really fun.  The top part, unseen from the ground has a nice mix of slabby face and bottomed out seams.  I put 4 bolts on the route, and it has good trad gear in between.  Everything from small RP stoppers, a red ball nut, to a #1 BD camalot will protect you well on this small adventure!

Liz & Zowie on belay, me on the FA of Seams Alright, December Wall, South St. Vrain Canyon.


1 comment:

  1. Nice post dude! Last summer was really fun, some of the best climbing Ive ever done...Glad to get the opportunity to climb some of those first ascents with ya..