Friday, June 1, 2012

What I love about the Gunks

I love many things about the Gunks.  It was the first big (world known) area I had ever climbed at.
That being said, it sticks with my heart!  I spent many weekends from 1991 through 1998 on those cliffs.

But what I really love is the quality of the climbing.  The stone is just perfect for fun routes.  It doesn't matter what the grade is, the climbing is just spectacular!

On a recent trip back east, we were able to get two days of climbing in.  The weather was not perfect, but we had a blast.  Upon arriving, we experienced 90+ degrees of temperature and humidity!  Ouch, I am not used to this humidity anymore (even though I grew up back here...)  It had also rained pretty hard before we got there.  First pitches, and sometimes whole routes were wet!  We toned down our ambitions, and stuck to some easier climbs.  It was also a holiday weekend, so many people were out enjoying the area.

One creature that was enjoying the area were the ticks.  I had two on my leg within 5 minutes of getting out of the car.  Then later that day, one on my arm.  Lucky I saw it!  It was one of those little bastards, you know like the size of a small pinhead, or poppy seed.  Those are the ones that carry lime disease.
We also got to enjoy the many millipedes.  They are much friendlier than the ticks, and nice to pet.  
It was also a first trip to this infamous area for Liz.  Now she knows what a Gunks 5.whatever is all about.
The grades are one of my other favorite things about the Gunks.  A 5.8 in the Gunks might be a 5.10a home here in Boulder canyon.  Maybe even a 11 if you were to climb at the sport park!

The classic MF,  it's only 5.9 going out those roofs.

Liz starting up the classic Something Interesting 5.7
Me pulling the Dangler.  Classic 5.9 roof climbing.

Sure was nice to be back on these things I had done years ago.  They were just as fun (hard) as I remembered them.  Especially when the routes were wet!

Heading up to the wet and slimy roof of Modern Times 5.8+

Modern times is the only 5.8 (sandbag) I have ever climbed where your feet swing off the wall.
It was most exciting being soaking wet.  I had to try harder than usual this time!

It you get the chance, visit the Gunks!  (Although not in the heart of summer, go during the Fall...)


  1. I still haven't been to The Gunks...but one day! glad you had fun! Love you guys!

  2. The Dangler...gotta love it. I'm glad you two had a chance to enjoy your old neighborhood. Welcome back!