Tuesday, January 29, 2013

First Ascents - Eldorado Canyon

Some people may think the Boulder Colorado area might be climbed out..  But they have no idea!
First Ascent of Genuine Risk Takers 5.11.      Genuine Risk is the dihedral to the right of me...

There is plenty of rock for new routing around these parts.  This past weekend Liz and me opened up
two new single pitch trad routes in Eldorado Canyon.  There they were, just sitting there, waiting for
someone to have an artistic view of the moves they had to offer...

I am sure you would like to know about these...  They are at the bottom of the Redguarden Wall, across
from the Wind Tower/Wind Ridge.  In Steve Levin's Eldo guide book, page #136 shows the area.
In his book, route #26 Genuine Risk is the spot.  Just to the left of this route is the two new ones.
(They are between Whittle Wall & Genuine Risk)

I scanned the page from Steve's book, and added some lines to it.

Genuine Risk Takers 5.11, trad (doubles in small gear, cams to #3 BD)-(red colored line on book photo)
Start the same as Genuine Risk, then when nearing the dihedral, head left a few feet, and up the steep wall.
Then continue more or less straight up into a small hanging right facing dihedral.  Trend up right to small tree.

The next route left:
Whittle Whisk 5.10, trad (doubles in small gear, cams up to #3 BD)-(green colored line on book photo)
This route has an independent start, a bit left of the last route.  Start up slab, with a short left facing
dihedral.  This is more or less directly behind the large pine tree at the base.
Head up slab, up prow (or blunt arete type feature) and up steep headwall (just left of last route)
and straight up more face, passing a short micro (a few feet long?) right facing corner bit.
Trend up right to the same small tree.

(Hope it is ok that I posted this Steve..)   :D

Another new route that I have not really talked about is one I completed earlier this summer.
On the West Ridge area of Eldorado Canyon is my new route
Snail Mail 5.10 R trad (standard rack)

This route sits up between Positively 4th Street, and Pony Express.
Start up the trad 5.9 called Cold Turkey (page #268 of Steve's book) route #152
After reaching a ledge (of your left) about half way up Cold Turkey, walk left across this ledge
and head out the overhanging roof/flake system head up and left.  Above this head straight up the face
via thin face holds, thin flakes, and small crack seams.  The gear above the roof really sucks for a ways.
Don't fall from here!  It would be bad.   I am thinking about putting a application into ACE for the
placement of a bolt or two on the face above the roof to make this climb  more fun for everyone.
Also in this application I will try to get a top anchor put in.  This would serve a good purpose for both
my new route, and Cold Turkey.  I think CT is getting more traffic now with the new guide book, and
good descriptions.  It is currently a loose and dirty walkoff  (to the west) above the Positively 4th Street area routes.  It would be good to keep people from having to use this dirty ledge for descent...  Just because of
all the people climbing in the area below you.

Snail Mail 5.10R (left)  & Cold Turkey 5.9 (right)

Enjoy the climbs!

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