Saturday, June 28, 2014

New Routing / Crags

This Spring time has been pretty fun!
New routes in Boulder Canyon, and up at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

On the first ascent of Midway Crisis 5.10  Eagle Rock, Vedauwoo Wyoming.

Here is a few photos describing the routes.

Go have fun!!

Boulder Canyon's Catacombs.  
Located below the left side of Vampire rock.
Approach by walking across the creek in low water.
In high water take the Vampire tyrollean traverse to route #5
You can also go up over route #5's walk off and access the anchors to route #4.
Rap from here to access the lower # routes, or take the Avalon tyrollean traverse that is down stream.

#1 Wellness Treetment 5.11 Mixed 3 bolts.
Start just left of route #2.  Stem up behind tree to right angling crack to dirty ledge.
Head up and left through steep bits, clipping bolts along the way.
Finish by heading up, and right to route #2's anchors.

#2 The Choice (3 roof variations.)  5.11, 5.10, 5.10  Mixed 1 bolt.
Start up a face move or two, and gain the bottom of a crack system.
Head up crack, and shallow left facing dihedral for few moves.
Bust right to the next crack, and take it to the dirty ledge.
From here move up toward roof.  Two ways to do this, but both clip the bolt on the face
before finishing up to the roof.

From here you have 3 options.
Left:    (5.11) Up stepped left facing dihedrals/roofs
Center:(5.10) Up just right of the bottom of the V that forms the big roof.
                      Hidden jug, and crack above,
Right:  (5.10) Up through the right edge of the roof / dihedrals area.  Pull out left onto arete feature.
                      Head up left to anchors.

#3 Bloodletting 5.10 Mixed 2 bolts.
     Starting down near creek.  Head up crack features towards the down pointing vampire tooth flake.
     Surmount this feature, clip bolts up face, enjoy.

#4 Bridge From The Underworld 5.9 Trad
     Currently the logs / bridge up against the wall grant access to this route.
     Otherwise use the same handholds, and sketch out on the feet towards the lone pine tree on wall.
     Climb over the left side of the tree, and off right to a large ledge that is directly over the creek.
     From here climb up small cracks, and face features.  Up higher gain some wider cracks in the steeps.
#5 Undertow 5.10 Trad
     After getting off of the Vampire tyrollean traverse, look at the pine tree left of the bolts anchor.
     Step up onto the ledge at this tree.  Traverse left out under some roof systems.  Pull over the roofs,
     with the second being the hardest moves, and gear placements on the climb.  Finish on a bit runout
     but low angle easy slabs to ledge.  Walk off.

Eagle Rock, Vedauwoo Wyoming.

The green route in the photo was already established.  We did the three red lines.
(Click on photos to enlarge.)

On the first ascent of Hard to Tell  

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